Watches & Wonders 2025

There’s something inherently bittersweet about Watches & Wonders. Every year, we get to see the best of horology on full display—brands pushing the envelope, dipping into their archives, and occasionally losing the plot entirely. And every year, I walk away wondering if half these pieces were made for actual humans or just concept art for billionaires.

This year? A mixed bag. So here’s my take. No fluff, no fawning, just what worked, and what didn’t, and a few watches I wish I could actually own.

Let’s get this out of the way: the Rolex Land-Dweller is not it. I say that as someone who loves Rolex and usually defends their slow, iterative design choices. But this? It feels like a brand having an identity crisis. The high-frequency movement is interesting, sure. The Oysterquartz callback? Bold. But the overall vibe feels like Rolex trying to flirt with AP’s Royal Oak audience—and it just doesn’t land.

And the new colourway Oyster Perpetuals? We waited all this time for… that? Come on.

That said, the Sky-Dweller with the bright green sunray dial—now that is Rolex in its zone. Loud, luxe, unmistakably confident. I could never pull it off, but I love that it exists.

As for the turquoise Cosmograph Daytona and GMT-Master II with tiger iron—they’re trying way too hard. Not every dial needs to be a statement piece. Rolex, let your icons breathe.

The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Ultra” is long overdue. I really like it—lightweight, capable, properly specced. But if I’m honest, I still struggle not to just wear a Sea-Dweller instead. It’s the curse of the cousin brand.

TAG Heuer, on the other hand, feels creatively stuck. I wish they'd go back to the vintage Carrera work they were doing a few years ago. The new releases? Formulaic and forgettable. They’re starting to feel like the fast fashion of watchmaking.

The Patek Calatrava 6196 on the other hand is everything I want from Patek—timeless, refined, and unapologetically classic. No, it’s not groundbreaking, but it doesn’t need to be. It’s a reminder that some brands don’t need gimmicks. I’ll just say this, I’m a sucker for that salmon dial.

Vacheron, though, came for Patek’s throat with the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication-La Première. It’s bonkers—in the best way. Forty-one complications, a solar display, and over 1,500 components packed into a wristwatch? It’s a flex, and a damn good one. Not wearable, not practical, but absolutely brilliant.

I love Lange. Which is why the Odysseus Chronograph in Honeygold was such a letdown. It feels gauche—like someone at the brand decided to make a flex piece and forgot that Lange’s strength is subtle brilliance, not peacocking.

Audemars Piguet: Predictable, Perfect, and totally Unobtainable. I loved the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50”. It’s not revolutionary, but it doesn’t need to be. It’s beautifully executed, open-worked just enough, and carries that quiet AP confidence. Will I ever own one? No. But man, it’s nice to dream.

Grand Seiko’s Ice Forest Spring Drive is hands-down one of the most beautiful watches of the show. I’m not sure I’d wear it, but as a piece of dial artistry, it’s exceptional.

Cartier’s Tank à Guichet isn’t for me, but I respect the revival. It’s gutsy, clever, and a nice nod to an overlooked part of their history.

IWC’s Ingenieur fell a bit flat. I love the brand, but this release felt like they were playing it safe, which is the opposite of what that line used to represent.

And then there’s Hublot… Look, we need to talk. The Big Bang Red Magic is more of the same: loud, flashy, tasteless. Hublot feels like the luxury watch equivalent of an energy drink—just a relentless, noisy design with no depth. Every year they manage to outdo themselves in making the watch no one asked for.

This year’s show reaffirmed a lot for me: I love classic execution, I respect innovation when it’s done with purpose, and I still can’t make peace with hype-driven designs that feel like marketing stunts. Watches & Wonders 2025 gave us masterpieces, missteps, and a few moments of magic—and maybe that’s all we can ask for.

As for me? I’ll be dreaming of that AP and nodding in admiration at that Vacheron. And keeping my wallet safely away from anything red, ceramic, and 45mm.